Alaska Cruise – Much More Than Just Snow and Ice!

  We enjoyed our first Alaska cruise so much we decided to take a second, again out of Vancouver.  On this cruise Maureen and I were joined by her sister Gloria and our oldest son David.

The Port

Vancouver was again our home port for the cruise for a number of reasons, the main two being, cruises from Vancouver go through the inside passage on the way to Alaska and this cruise stopped at the Hubbard Glacier.  We also really like Vancouver as a city to overnight before our cruise date.  This cruise we decided to arrive two days early and take a day to explore Vancouver – more on that in a later post.

The Executive Hotel Le Soleil was home for two nights during our pre-cruise visit.  Really like the feel and location of this hotel, close to shopping and a variety of food options, plus it is an early walk to the Port of Vancouver.

The walk from the hotel to the port is pretty much a straight line down Hornby street.  There are a few steps to navigate however there are ramps you can use to roll your suitcase and avoid the steps. The day of departure there were multiple ships in port with travelers disembarking from earlier cruises and excited travelers loading up for Alaska.

The boarding process was quick and easy.  Being in Canada, I thought getting through customs might be slow since we all had to do a passport check.  This process was very efficient.  You check your luggage for boarding or carry on (you do not have to check your luggage).  If you do carry on, you need to keep your luggage with you until your room opens (usually 1:00PM).  Checked bags are delivered to the hallway outside your stateroom door that afternoon.

Cruising to Alaska is a bit different that cruising the Caribbean, Gulf of Mexico or Europe. You can pack shorts, flip-flops and tank-tops, however I wouldn’t recommend them as your primary appeal.

Southeast Alaska lies at the heart of the North American Temperate Rain Forest, a waterproof rain jacket is essential.  We also choose to pack waterproof shoes, long pants/jeans, long sleeve shirts and light weight tops in order to layer our clothing during excursions and on the ship.  Our first Alaska cruise, it rained and was chilly everyday.  This cruise it was sunny and high 60’s/low 70’s the whole time.  The locals told us they were experiencing a drought the days we were their. Always best to be prepared.

When we booked our rooms, we specifically request unobstructed ocean view rooms.  Some balcony rooms on the ship do have obstructed views of the scenery due to lift boats, ship’s structures, etc.  When booking your cruise, be sure to confirm your room does have an unobstructed view.  The other essential to pack is a good pair of binoculars.  Don’t purchase a cheap set, you’ll miss out on scouting the wildlife, viewing waterfalls, whale watching and up close views of Hubbard Glacier.  If you forget, you can purchase a set on the ship.

The Cruise

We have cruised out of a number of cities, however there’s something magical about watching the skyline of Vancouver fade into the distance as you pass beneath the Lions Gate Bridge, heading north to America’s Last Frontier – Alaska.  Cruises from Vancouver sail through Canada’s Inside Passage en route to Alaska. This narrow passage is between Vancouver Island and British Columbia and offers scenic mountain views.

Our itinerary included Sitka, Juneau, Hubbard Glacier and Ketchikan.  Not all cruises go to Hubbard Glacier.  Check online or call your cruise line if Hubbard is something you want to experience ( it is a magnificent sight and worth the chilly stop).  A word on excursions, explore your options and book early as the better excursions sell out quickly.  Try something new and different, it might be the only time you have an opportunity to take a helicopter ride to a glacier, go salmon fishing, be amazed by the beautiful artwork of Native totem poles and view wildlife you usually only see on television.  Be prepared to be amazed.

Royal Caribbean employs their smaller ships for the Alaskan cruise. They are easier to maneuver through the Inside passage, Tracy Arm Fjord and can get closer to Hubbard Glacier.  Tracy Arm Fjord was on our itinerary, however due to rock slides the fjord was closed.  Our first Alaskan cruise went into the fjord, beautiful waterfalls and scenery.  Ships enter the fjord. cruise and then turn around to sail back out.

We were on the Serenade of the Sea. I enjoy the smaller ships for these types of cruises.  The Serenade has a outdoor heated area for early morning coffee and a patio off the Windjammer buffet with outside tables.  We enjoyed breakfast and lunch there.  Always good to wear a heavier shirt or jacket for meals in the Windjammer if you want to eat outside,  enjoy the scenery or catch a few whales swimming bye.  Alaskan cruises usually run from late April to early September.  We went August 31 to September 6 in hopes of seeing the Northern Lights.

One of the many things an Alaskan cruise offers are beautiful sunrises and sunsets.  I rose almost every morning before sunrise, went out on the balcony with my phone to take pictures.

Cruising through the inside passage of western Canada and Alaska, I was awestruck by the beauty of the landscape and the calm I enjoyed sitting on my balcony, taking all of this in, cruising through channels carved out by past glaciers. At times you are so close to the hills, you feel like you can almost reach out and touch them.  Forested ridges, waterfalls, rocky beaches and the hue of the water tells you this is someplace special.  As you move further north, you might even see a few whales from the deck of the ship or your balcony. It pays to be alert and look for movement in the water.

 

Sitka

After a day of cruising, first stop – Sitka, the only inside passage community that fronts the Pacific Ocean.  Originally inhibited by the Tlingit people, the city has a strong Russian heritage as it was once the capital of Russian Alaska.  When Alaska was sold to the United States in 1867, the transfer ceremony was held in Sitka.  The city is not on the road system and is only accessible by air or water.

After docking, we were bused to the Tourist Information Center.  From there it is short walk to to the shopping district.  Sitka has the largest and most varied selection of shops and restaurants of the three cities we visited.  Before shopping we took the mile long walk along the coast line to Sitka National Historical Park.  The Park is home to numerous trails and a large display of Tlingit totem poles.  We didn’t venture too deep in to the trails as we wanted to explore downtown Sitka.

Walking back from the Park, we stopped to explore the Russian Bishop’s House. It is one of the few surviving examples of Russian colonial architecture in North America.  Imperial Russia was the dominant power in the North Pacific  for over 125 years. The Bishop’s house was completed in 1842 and was closed in 1969 due to disrepair.  The National Park Service obtained the house  and under took a 16 year project to restore the house to its 1853 appearance.  The house gives us a view of life in Sitka during the Russian-American period.

Next stop, shopping in downtown Sitka.  We spend a couple of hours walking through the shops looking for unique souvenirs.  We did purchase a few ULU knives (pronounced ooloo) for gifts.  Invented by the Inuit (Eskimo) people it came in various sizes and was used for hunting, fishing, skinning and every other domestic cutting need.  Once made with a handle of wood or bone and a stone slate blade, today’s version is made from hardwood and stainless steel for ease of use. Needless to say, these need to be in your checked bag for air travel. After shopping, it was back to the ship on the bus and onward to Juneau.

Juneau

Alaska’s capital city is completely inaccessible by road, reachable only by air or sea. The city is sandwiched between massive mountains and the Gastineau Channel, creating a stunning view when you arrive by ship.  Long before Juneau, it was Dzantik’i Héeni (“Base of the Flounder’s River), for literally thousands of years, a popular Native fishing ground. Then, in 1880 two prospectors, Richard Harris and Joe Juneau, guided by Tlingit Chief Kowee, struck gold at the mouth of Gold Creek—the rush was on (and the town was built). During the next six decades, Juneau produced $150 million of gold, worth $7 billion today!

Tourists have been cruising the Inside Passage since 1881, when the Pacific Coast Steamship Company began monthly sailings aboard two ships, the Ancon and the Idaho. The standard cabin rate was $30, steerage, as we know it today “economy” was $15. A little different in 1881, you would be carrying Klondike prospectors as well as livestock and freight.

Being the state capitol. Juneau has a large downtown shopping area with less touristy stores and more stores supplying the needs of everyday like for the cities residents.  There are a few interesting places like Jellyfish donuts – home of the salmon donut.

 

In Juneau, we booked an excursion through the ship that included Mendenhall Glacier and Gold Coast salmon bake.  First stop, Mendenhall Glacier. The Glacier is located in Mendenhall Valley, about 12 miles from downtown Juneau and is part of the Mendenhall Glacier Recreation Area within the Tongass National Forest

The Mendenhall Glacier is one of many “rivers of ice” in southeast Alaska formed during the Little Ice Age which began about 3,000 years ago. The unique climate and geography of this region allowed glaciers to survive long after they began receding from other places in North America.  The glacier flows for 12 miles down the Mendenhall Valley to its terminus near the visitor center. The ice flows forward at an average rate of 2 feet per day, but at the very same time, it wastes away at a slightly faster rate. Wastage occurs through melting or by large pieces of ice breaking off the face of the glacier.

After stopping at the visitors center, we walked the 2 mile round trip to Nugget Falls before stopping at the Glacier photo vantage point.  The walk to the Falls is not strenuous at all. It is along a well worn trail with minimal elevation changes. A few stops can be a bit slippery as you approach the Falls.  The grandeur of the Falls is well worth the trip.  The four of us took our time as there was plenty of time to return to the visitors center for the bus ride to the salmon bake.

After a short wait at the Visitor’s Center we boarded the bus to the Gold Coast Salmon Bake.  It’s an all you eat buffet with Salmon roasted over an open fire, beans with reindeer sausage, salad, cornbread, au gratin potatoes, various drinks and blueberry cake for dessert.  You can have your salmon plain or topped with their sauce wish was very good.  It is a buffet, so if you like salmon, a good place to have lunch.  I really liked the baked beans with the reindeer sausage, so tasty.

The salmon bake is a wide-open area with covered tables, chairs and benches.  If you have a group and want to sit together grab a table when arrive as multiple excursions stop there for lunch.  Raining. no worry the seating areas are protected but you will still need your ran jacket to move about and for waiting in line for the bus back to the ship.  After you eat there is a short trail along the stream next to the bake that leads to an old gold mine.  You walk past old mining equipment giving you a feel for the hard lifestyle of a gold miner. Along the way there is an opportunity to try your hand at panning for gold.  Give yourself time to catch a bus back to the dock, as the bus may stop at several ships before yours.

Hubbard Glacier

About mid-morning the next day, the ship was a buzz with passengers and crew heading to the bow of the ship as we navigated through Yakutat Bay.  We were approaching Hubbard Glacier! It was a beautiful but cool and windy blue sky day and the Glacier was there, right in front of us with all its majesty. I have never seen so many crew members out taking pictures.  Not all Alaskan cruises go to Hubbard Glacier, this is something special!

Known as the “Galloping Glacier,” Hubbard Glacier is North America’s largest tidewater glacier, stretching 76 miles long and 11 miles wide. Its massive blue-white face (400 feet tall) creates spectacular calving events where enormous ice chunks ( 3-4 stories in height) dramatically crash into the sea. The glacier’s consistent forward movement (7.5 miles per year) makes it a awe-inspiring sight for cruise passengers. Due to the spectacular calving, all cruise ships maintain a safe distance ( in perfect conditions 1/2 mile away) from the glacier.  Even maintaining this safe distance you are close enough for incredible pictures while watching massive ice chunks fall off the glacier face and crash in to the bay. Get those binoculars and camera ready!

The captain will turn the ship so that both port and starboard sides have an opportunity to view the Glacier.  You will see passengers moving from side to side along the rails hoping to get better views and pictures.  Be ready to move as the ship turns to grab a good spot along the rail.  Ships photographers were also available to take photos of your group.  These are sold with a nice Hubbard Glacier background.  On the beautiful blue sky day we had, nice memory of a potential once in a lifetime visit.

Ketchikan

With the Tongass National Forest as a backdrop, Ketchikan, known as Alaska’s “First City” is a town with a colorful past and were salmon is king.  At nearly 17 million acres, the Tongass National Forest is the largest National Forest in the United States, and the largest contiguous temperate rainforest in the world. Being located in the Tongass, Ketchikan averages between 140 – 160 inches of rainfall a year, making it among the wettest cities in the country.  The rain contributes to the area’s lush green vegetation and promotes health salmon stock. To local residents, rain is just a part of the everyday life.

Used as a fishing camp for many years by the Tongass and Tlingits people, abundant fish and timber resources attracted non-natives. In 1885, Mike Martin bought 160 acres from a local chef and this became Ketchikan township. The first salmon cannery open in 1886 and four more were built by 1912. By 1936, seven canneries were in operation, producing 1.5 million cases of salmon.

Ketchikan has the largest collection of native totem poles in the state of Alaska.  We booked two excursions, one to Saxman Native Village to view the totem pole collection and the other being the local lumberjack show.  We were driven by bus to the Saxman Village.  There were an amazing number of intricate carved totem poles on the property each telling a different story.  As you enter you pass the totem pole workshop where elder carvers are passing this unique craft to younger tribe members. The first pole we encounter was laying horizontal in front of the workshop.  It gave us an opportunity to touch and examine the carvings, paint and density of the wood.  From there our guide walked us a number of totem poles explaining the carved symbols, how the paint was developed and the story behind each pole as depicted by it’s carvings.  An art form I glad to see being passed on as elder carvers pass away.  Very informative and enjoyable excursion.

Next stop, the Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show. Two teams of two lumberjacks each compete for the title of “King of the Woods”. One team represents the Spruce Mill team of Ketchikan, while the other represents the Dawson Creek team of the Yukon. The crowd is divided in two teams, one rooting for Spruce Mill and the for Dawson Creek.  The host adds another flare by making one team American and the other Canadian.  This hypes the crowd up even more. The teams compete in axe throwing, speed climbing, buck sawing, chainsaw carving, wood chopping, crosscut sawing and the crowd favorite, log rolling.  Score is kept by awarding an American or Canadian flag for each event winner, who ever has the most flags wins.  The show runs for about an hour and is a good family excursion.

After the show, it was an easy walk back the ship through Ketchikan.  Lots of souvenir shops, jewelry stores, restaurants and sellers of Alaskan art and artifacts.

Northern Lights

We went on this cruise later in the summer in hopes of seeing the Northern Lights while on the ship.  In 2025, the lights were visible in many of the northern states.  We used the My Aurora Forecast and Alerts application on our phones every night to check how far south the Northern Lights were visible. The app also showed cloud cover maps which could affect viewing.  Most nights the Lights weren’t visible or cloud cover blocked our viewing.  We finally had an opportunity on our last sailing night.  The lights were only available for about an hour from 11:00 PM to Midnight.  We bundled up, meet on the top deck of the ship with a number of other passengers, cameras ready.  We did get a few good shots as the time window was short.

Next morning we were back in Vancouver, packed up and heading to the airport.  We had a great time on this cruise, saw incredible sites and explored natural wonders only seen in Alaska.  This was our second Alaska cruise, I would definitely go back with family and friends to explore again.

Advice for first time cruisers to Alaska:

Pack rain gear and prepare to dress in layers.  Just don’t know what the weather will be and if it will change.  Cool mornings and warm afternoons.

Have a pair of good walking shoes that will probably get wet.

Book your excursions early, preferably when you book your cruise.  Excursions sell out early.

Multiple cruise lines cruise to Alaska and offer similar excursions, venues could be crowded.

Same goes for shopping, expect crowds when looking for places to eat and walking around town.

Price compare different stores, we found varying prices on ULU knives.

Take binoculars and have a good camera. Most people use their phones. 

Pay attention as you cruise the inside passage – great place to whale watch

If visiting Hubbard Glacier, get up on the bow early for better pictures.

Give yourself time to return to the ship, especially from the Salmon Bake.

Enjoy the natural beauty and calm as you cruise.

The Last Frontier is calling. Will you answer?