Bologna, Italy

Bologna, Italy – “A True Food Paradise”

When we planned our visit to Cinque Terre, we chose to travel by train, not renting a car.  Bologna was the closest major city we could easily fly into. By default, we planned our flight back home from Bologna.

I never thought of Bologna as someplace I would plan to visit while in Italy.  Like most people, I think of Rome, Venice, Florence and the various coastal cities as the places to discover

After our short stay in Pisa, we decided to spend a couple of days in Bologna, what a pleasant surprise!

  It’s a short train ride from Pisa to Bologna Centrale. The train station was easy to navigate. Exiting the front door you can walk down the Via Dell’indipendenza, one of the main avenues in Bologna.

We opted to stay in a hotel walking distance from the train station, the I Portici Hotel, which is on Via Dell’indipendenza.  I Portici Hotel

             The hotel is in a good location, close to the train station, walking distance to most historical sites and easy to find after exploring the many alleys and side streets of Bologna.

The hotel had a nice breakfast buffet and above the street outdoor seating area .  The outdoor area had a pizza shop, however reservations are necessary as it was booked both nights we stayed at the hotel.  The staff was friendly and helped us reserve a taxi to the airport for a very early morning flight.  Bologna does have a dedicated rail system (Marconi Express) that runs between the main train station and the airport.  We needed to be at the airport before the Marconi Express began daily operations.

The City

We really didn’t know anything about Bologna.  You talk with people about visiting Rome, Florence, Venice, Cinque Terre and other coastal cities, but not Bologna.  If you want to treat yourself to exquisite Italian cuisine in between visiting the historical sites of a city that dates back 2500 years, Bologna is the place for you.

We walked these beautiful covered sidewalks not realizing they were one of the many arcades within the city.  Most of the cities fine buildings, palaces and arcades were constructed during the 11th – 15th centuries.  The University of Bologna opened in 1088 and is Europe’s oldest university.  The streets in the center of town are part of the original Roman design of the city.

After checking into the hotel. we began exploring by walking down Via Dell’indipendenza.  We were too busy checking out all the shops and restaurants to realize we were walking under the arcades pictured above.  Sometime it’s necessary to take the time to look around, you could be missing one of the key features of a city.  Stopping for lunch at a small restaurant along one of the many side streets, I had to try the spaghetti Bolognese.  It was very good and was a nice introduction to the fabulous cuisine we would experience.

    Spaghetti Bolognese at Mangiassieme

After lunch we continued walking and found Piazza Maggiore. The Piazza dates back to 1200 AD, when the city began to acquire houses and land to build a square.  The Piazza became home to all the major institutions in the city, including:

• Palazzo d’Accursio (W) – city hall and museum
• Palazzo dei Notai (SW) – former notaries’ guild
• Basilica of San Petronio (SE) – Duomo of Bologna
• Palazzo dei Banchi (E) – former banking center
• Palazzo del Podestà, Bologna (N) – former police and justice offices

Piazza Maggiore

Basilica of San Petronio

Located next to the Piazza Maggiore is the Quadrilatero.  Leaving the Piazza Maggiore behind us, we ventured into the narrow alleys of the Quadrilatero, an ancient market of Medieval origin with shops that have been handed down through the generations and sell the same category of goods or have still kept their historic architecture and furnishings. It is the oldest market in the city and a must see on your journey of exploring the culinary delight that is Bologna.

Here are a few notable shops in the Quadrilatero worth exploring:

• Paolo Atti & Figli for fresh pasta
• Antica Aguzzeria del Cavallo for kitchen tools
• Enoteca Italiana for regional wines
• Melega Art for traditional ceramic tableware
• Osteria del Sole – oldest bar in Bologna
• Roccati for chocolate.

The ancient market is in the area that runs from the Piazza Maggiore to the Asinelli Tower.

After the Quadrilatero we headed to the Asinelli Tower.

 

The Asinelli Tower is the tallest tower in Bologna standing at 318 feet tall. The Garisenda Tower also known as the leaning tower is next to the Asinelli Tower, which also leans. Since the 14th century, city officials have been worried about the Garisenda collapsing,  It still stand today.

The Asinelli Tower was built in the 12th century, Climbing the 498 steps to the top provides the best views overlooking Bologna and the surrounding hills. It is the tallest leaning tower in Italy. The Towers were built by wealth families as a display of their power and over time became an integral part of the city’s fortifications and surveillance systems.

Superstition regarding the Tower states that if you climb the Tower before graduating the local university, you will not graduate, so best to wait.

Asinelli Tower Info   As of this article date, the Tower is closed for renovations

After the Towers we headed back to the hotel.  Had pizza that night at the hotel, we couldn’t sit outside on the patio since we didn’t have a reservation, however we were able to eat inside.  The outside patio was packed with diners as the pizza was very good and something I would recommend during your visit.

Breakfast at the hotel the next morning.  After breakfast we walked the local shops looking for souvenirs for ourselves and the grand children.  Purchased a Christmas ornament to add to one of our trees.

The Food

Now let’s get to real reason for visiting Bologna – the food!  Bologna is lovingly known as “La Grassa” which means “The Fat One”.  The city has a love affair with food, especially the many Italian staples that originated in this area.

Let’s start with Bolognese Sauce. Some call it a sauce, others ragu or gravy. Whatever you want to call it, it originated in Bologna. It is used to only be served on top of tagliatelle pasta and in lasagna, but is now used on all types of pastas.

Mortadella is the pride and joy of Bologna.  It is made of high quality pig fat, pistachios, peppercorns and wine. The mixture is stuffed in a large sausage, cooked and cooled.  Mortadella is highly regulated and must have an exact pork to fat ratio of 7:3.  It is a staple ingredient in many Bologna recipes including tortellini in brodo. (traditional tortellini in meet broth).

Authentic Mortadella is very hard to find in the U.S. due to strict FDA regulations.  Your best chance is to find a true authentic Italian deli and you’ll likely find it there. Bologna’s locals love it as a quick snack, or sandwich meat.  It is always present at family gatherings and festivities.

Can you say cheese?  Italy is known worldwide for it’s love of cheese, from mozzarella to parmesan.  A short drive from Bologna is Reggio Emilia, Parmigiano Reggiano originated in this region. To ensure quality, the production of true Parmigiano Reggiano is regulated by the Italian government. Each cheese wheel must meet strict controls in every step of the production and aging process.  Under Italian law, the name “parmigiano reggiano” and the translation parmesan can only refer to this protected cheese.

The Bologna area is also known for its unique, flavorful Balsamic vinegar.  Shopping for Balsamic vinegar in your local grocery store you can see prices for a bottle range between $10 – $200.  Why would you spend $30 or more dollars for a bottle of vinegar.  After discovering the process and requirements for production of this flavorful dressing, I can understand the pricing and difference in quality.

Balsamic vinegar also originated in this region and its production is heavily regulated by a balsamic vinegar certification agency. The agency can taste the vinegar at anytime and if the taste doesn’t represent Balsamic Vinegar well, they will take the certification away.

Balsamic vinegar, or “Aceto Balsamico,” is  revered for its unique, complex flavor profile. There are two main varieties of balsamic vinegar: Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale and Aceto Balsamico di Modena IGP.

• Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale is the granddaddy of all balsamic vinegars, made using time-honored methods that date back centuries. Produced in the Modena and Reggio Emilia regions of Italy. It’s made from cooked grape must, then aged in wooden barrels for a minimum of 12 years, with some varieties  aged for 25 years or longer. It’s noted for its thick consistency and complex, sweet, and slightly tart flavor. If shopping for Balsamic vinegar and you see a DOP (Denominazione di Origine Protetta) label, this guarantees its authentic Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale.
• Aceto Balsamico di Modena IGP is a more commercial product and is produced in areas outside of the provinces of Modena and Reggio Emilia. Made from a blend of wine vinegar and grape must, aged a minimum two months, it is thinner and less complex in flavor then the Tradizionale variety. This balsamic vinegar is less expensive and is used in everyday cooking. The IGP (Indicazione Geografica Protetta) label assures that the vinegar is made to specific regional traditions.

Bologna has you covered when it comes to pasta, but let’s talk about the king – Tortellini.  It is the number one reason to visit Bologna, if you need one. Traditional served in a meat broth, the locals have it at Christmas and Sunday lunch with the family.

Tortellini has medieval roots with mentions of the delicise dating to 1095, first written mention in 1289 and the first written recipe in the 1300s.  The world was introduced to Tortellini in 1889 when Luigi and Oreste Bertagni decided to participate in the Universal Exhibition of Paris, showing tortellini.  The Bertagni brothers were very successful, winning two bronze medals.

There was a long standing debate between Bologna and Modena as to where it was created.  In 1974, the Confraternita del Tortellino (Brotherhood of the Tortellino) and the Accademia Italiana della Cucina (Italian Academy of Cuisine) officially registered the recipe for Bolognese tortellini with the Bologna Chamber of Commerce.  Officially making Bologna the creators of tortellini.

According to the official recipe, the filling must consist of a balanced mix of pork loin, prosciutto, mortadella, Parmigiano Reggiano, egg, and nutmeg. The outer pasta is made of flour and eggs, rolled thin, cut into small squares, and folded around a finger to create the signature shape. Bolognese Tortellini recipe: Tortellini

Oct.4th is St.Petronio (Feast Day – Patron saint of Bologna), a very important day for Bologna. Lots of celebrations, parties and one unique event for foodies – Bologna’s Annual Tortellini Festival. The cities top chefs compete to create the most unique tortellini dish.  The only have to follow two rules:

1. the dough must be handmade with a wood rolling pin
2. the shape of tortellino must be the classic one.

Except for those, every chef is free to create and innovate, mix and combine. The chefs take great pride in highlighting the culinary history of Bologna, past and present. Official Festival website: Tortellini Festival

I would return to Bologna for this festival. Every side street you walk in Bologna has multiple small grocery stories, each selling multiple varieties of fresh made tortellini  and of course restaurants large and small have their version of the incredible pasta – I love it.  Good article on the history of pasta in Bologna and the sfoglia(grannies) who made it for their families along with suggestions on where to enjoy this treat:   The Art of Bolognese Pasta

Bologna is famous for many other Italian delicacies outside of the ones I covered. There are many website sites suggesting the foods to try in Bologna, pretty good list:  What to Eat in Bologna

The Food Tour

On our last day, Maureen scheduled a food tour of the city, what a great way to experience why Bologna is known as “La Grassa” (The Fat One).  We were part of a small group that met our guide at the Asinelli Tower, off we when into the Quadrilatero.

First stop: Caffe Terzi for coffee and a pastry.  Opened in 2001, and named after its owner Manuel Terzi, he has authored multiple books on coffee and tea and has been a finalist in multiple Italian Coffee Barista Championships. The Caffe is known for a rich variety of coffees and for roasting its own blend. I decided to try sometime different and ordered a pistachio coffee, Maureen had her favorite – cappuccino.  I recommend the pistachio coffee when you visit – very tasty.

Pistachio Coffee and Cappuccino.

After coffee, we headed to Bruno E Franco to pick up a meat and cheese tray for our next stop.  Open since 1985, they specialize in locally sourcing all their cured meats, cheeses, wine and extra virgin olive oil. We did have time to look around the shop, so many local products. If I lived in Bologna, I would end up going from small shop to small shop buying the items they are known for as part of my grocery shopping.

  Meat tray we would soon enjoy.

We soon found out where we were going to get to enjoy the meat and cheeses from Bruno E Franco, L’Osteria del Sole  the oldest wine bar in Bologna.

To give you a sense of history, Osteria del Sole opened before Columbus set sail for America.  The first documented mention of it are set in 1465. There are numerous old maps and drawings highlighting its location and interior layout (check the website). The walls and location of the interior space has been the same for over 500 years.

The Spolaore Family acquire Osteria del Sole in 1945 and ran it until 2009.  In 2009 the family was at a crossroads with the death of owner Luciano Spolaore.  A local group stepped in to acquire the wine bar, vowing to continue the long tradition and character of an establishment that has witnessed over 500 years of the city’s history.   Check your map if you want to enjoy a glass of wine at Osteria del Sole.  On the outside of the building, you’ll see a sign that simply reads “Wine”.

Our tour group enjoy white and red wine selection along the meats and cheeses purchased earlier.

Entrance to Osteria del Sol and their white wine

Some of the many pictures and posters on the walls.  Very simple furnishings inside Osteria del Sole

After Osteria del Sole, we walked to Gilberto, another of the many groceries stores within the Quadrilatero.  We walked in, looked around, very similar to Bruno E Franco.  Our group was then guided down a narrow steps of stairs to the basement and what appeared to be a rather large wine cellar.  We all thought more wine, however instead of wine we would be tasting olive oil that ranged in age from newly bottled to aged for 30 years. I wasn’t sure about this, however what a pleasant surprise.  As the olive oils grew in age, they tasted better and better, the 30 year old sample was incredible. A very surprising stop on the our tour.

Gilberto and inside the wine cellar

Bottles of aged olive oil and a 30 year old sampling

After Gilberto, on to the main dish of the tour – tortellini at Bottega Portici  Tortellini wasn’t the only pasta available, however when in Bologna, you have to eat the tortellini.  Bottega Portici’s chefs work in full view of the public crafting tortellini, tortelloni and tagliatelle.  I ordered my tortellini with Alfredo sauce, I know not very traditional, but I like tortellini and I like Alfredo sauce.  It was delicious and I could of eaten two servings if the tour aloud.  It was a nice afternoon so we sat outside four people to a table. The group ordered a variety of pastas and everyone I spoke with was very satisfied with the quality and taste of their dish. Bottega Portici is listed as one of the top 25 restaurants for tortellini in Bologna.

Time for dessert and off to Atti for Torta di Riso. One of the most popular desserts in Bologna, it is a creamy rice cake made with arborio rice, eggs, sugar, and lemon zest. Baked until golden brown, it has a rich, custard-like consistency that is both comforting and indulgent.  Mixed opinions within the group on the Torta di Riso.  I like custard, for me i enjoyed it and also ate Maureen’s piece

The Paolo Atti & Figli company has been in Bologna for over 150 years. Starting as a bakery, then later making pasta and adding delicatessens to their shops.  The owners have also published a cookbook – “Bologna in the Kitchen” family recipes since 1868.

Pastries in the window and Torta di Rosa

Of course we had to end our tour with gelato at  Cremeria Vecchia Stalla . So many unique flavors to chose from.  We played it safe and ordered something as close to chocolate as possible.  A nice refreshing way to top off the tour.

 

The food tour was well worth the costs and helped explore the many little side streets of Bologna so full of great food.  The quantity of food at each stop gave a change to really taste each specialty, allowing us to enjoy each shop and restaurant.  A great way to find out why Bologna is called “La Grassa” and learn the city’s history at the same time.

The next morning, early cab ride to the airport, on to Munich and back to Houston.

If you need a break from eating great food, Italy’s famous Motor Valley is only 50 miles from Bologna, home to Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati and Ducati.  Motor Valley Website

Wondering why you haven’t visited? Bologna isn’t swarmed with tourists as most Italy cities, it offers a rich history, architecture, the Motor Valley and incredible food.