Bruges – A Medieval City Lost in Time
What can you say about a city the thrived economically in 13th and 14th centuries and looks today as if it is frozen in time from that period of its history. That is Bruges!
A short one hour train ride from Brussels, its winding canals, cobblestone streets, and towering Gothic spires look like something out of a medieval story book.
We have been to Bruges twice, once as a day trip from Brussels and the second trip was with our Dutch friends Ronald and Monique. We spend a day and half in the city on our second trip spending the night in a local hotel.
The Bruges Story
With a city this old, I believe it is important we understand its history before exploring where to visit, eat and stay. Bruges (locally known as Brugge) is in the West Flanders region of Belgium. Baldwin I, the first Count of Flanders settled in Bruges around 863. He and his descendants acquired more and more political power building the Count’s dynasty with Bruges as the center of power and capital of the County of Flanders.
The presence of the Counts of Flanders,with its favourable location and connection with the sea, Bruges evolved to become an international port and trading city. Flemish cloth (processed woollen fabric) has been famous for its quality since the days of Roman occupation and this commodity provided an economic boost .for Bruges staring in the 11th century.
Italian merchants opted for Bruges as the the base for their sea trade at the end of the 13th century. With this, merchants from all over Europe came and settled in the city. This prompted a building boom with the Belfry, St. John’s Hospital and several churches being constructed. The world’s very first stock exchange was also established in Bruges during this period. By the 14th century, Bruges became one of the most important trading centers in Northwest Europe.
Enriched by money made trading, local Royalty enticed famous painters such as Jan van Eyck to move to Bruges. Noblemen and distinguished families spent fortunes decorating their residences. The flow of supply and demand lead Bruges to become a famous production center for luxury goods. Local Guilds controlled production ensuring high quality products. Foreign merchants channeled their trades through Bruges, making it an international trading hub. Bruges grew to one of the largest cities in Europe, home to sixty thousand residents. The period was known as “The Golden Age of Bruges”.
Bruges economic boom came to an end with the death of Duchess, Mary of Burgundy in 1482. Her husband, Maximilian of Austria and the people of Bruge did not have the same relationship as they did with the Duchess. He left the city taking nobles and merchants with him. Antwerp became the new trade center of the Low Countries. As trade dwindled, Bruges connections to the North Sea silted up, despite efforts to keep the waterways open. Bruges went through many upheavals, religious and political differences and centuries of war, belonging successively to the Spanish, Austrian, French and Dutch empires.
Around 1830, Bruges found itself impoverished. The industrial revolution largely bypassed the city and the economy centered around small-scale industry. At one time over ten thousand of the city’s fifty thousand residents, mostly women made their living by making lace. In 1838, Bruges was connected to the Belgian railway system, this brought many tourists, Britons visiting Waterloo spent the night in Bruges with many permanently settling their. More visitors arrived after reading Georges Rosenbach’s novel “Bruges-la-Morte” Bruges was depicted as a somewhat sleepy, but distinctly mysterious place. The photographs in the novel inspired people to visit.
At the end of the 19th century, city council approved construction of a new seaport which again made Bruges a world class port. Almost untouched during both World Wars, the city again found itself impoverished. In 1970, the city renewed again with an emphasis on renovating historic houses, cleaning up the canals, developing green spaces and banning cars. The strategy worked, today Bruges is considered one of the most beautiful and agreeable cities to live.
What to Explore
What I love about Bruges, beside the canals and architecture is the ability get off the train or park your car and just start walking. The buildings and the feel of the city take you back in time, there is so much to see and explore. If you can’t tell, I really like this place.
As you walk, the first place to go is to the heart of the city – The Markt – a cobbled square surrounded by gabled houses and cafes. Towering above the Markt is the Belfry of Bruge., the city’s most prominent building. Two hundred and seventy feet tall, climbing the 366 steps to the top, you are awarded with spectacular panoramic views of the city. The Belfry was originally a wooden tower built upon a stone base. After many fires, the tower was constructed of stone and completed in 1822. Today the tower holds 47 bells and regularly chime the hours and important events.
After the Belfry, take time to admire the Provincial Court, the gabled houses, grab a bite to eat at one of the many cafes and shop in the open stalls market place. Many of the cafes have outside seating, a great place to sit and people watch. From here you can take a carriage ride around the city. If you happen to be there on a Wednesday morning, you can enjoy Market Days in the square. The Markt is also home to the Historium, a museum that uses special effects and life size models to transport you back to the golden ages of Bruges when it was a world trading center.
One of the unique things about Bruges is the number of churches and chapels in the city. Bruges has more than 30 churches, 14 still organize weekly mass and 13 can be visited with no admission fee. Some churches have been repurposed as cultural centers or exhibit halls. Many of the other churches and chapels are associated with a monastery or convent, while others are part of a school. If you like visiting churches, you will love Bruges! Most visitors visit the Church of Our Lady and the Basilica of the Holy Blood, and you should definitely visit those two when visiting Bruges.
Through all the wars and all the changes in ruling countries, Bruges has remained a Catholic city. It has more than 300 statues of the Virgin Mary on the facades of houses, sitting and standing in the many churches. Bruges has had the title of “The City of Mary” since the 16th century. If you like to explore churches, you could spend a couple of days in Bruges doing only that.
Two of my favorite churches to visit are the Church of Our Lady and the Basilica of the Holy Blood.
Construction on the Church of Our Lady began around 1225 and took more than 200 years to complete. The 500 foot high brick church is the second highest brick tower in the world and the tallest structure in Bruges. The church is famous for its artistic treasures, highlighted by Michelangelo’s marble Madonna and Child. Originally designed for the Siena Cathedral in Italy, the sculpture was purchased by a Bruges merchant family and was shipped to the city. The Church also houses artwork by Bernard van Orley as well as the 15th and 16th century mausoleums of Charles the Bold and Mary of Burgundy. The main nave of the church can be visited free of charge, to visit the museum which houses the Madonna and Child and the mausoleums, you must by a ticket (8 Euros).
Dating back to the 12th century, the Basilica of the Holy Blood is a double chapel built by Thierry of Alsace and is dedicated to Saint Basil the Great. One of the oldest statues of the Virgin Mary (dating back to 1300) is housed in the lower Roman style chapel. The upper Gothic style chapel has been rebuilt twice, once in the 15th century and again in the 19th century when the French partially destroyed it. The relic of the Holy Blood is housed in the upper chapel.
How did the Blood of Christ end up in Bruges? According to the Gospel of Matthew, Joseph of Arimathea took Jesus from the cross and washed his body with cloths. Joseph did not throw away these cloths, but kept them in Jerusalem along with other passion relics. Legend states that Thierry of Alsace transferred the Relic of the Holy Blood from Jerusalem to Bruges in 1150. This was later disproved by historians. Today, historians link the Relic of the Holy Blood to the looting of Constantinople in 1204 by the Crusaders, who brought it back to Western Europe. How did the blood of Christ end up in Constantinople, Saint Helena of Constantinople is said to have taken many passion relics from Jerusalem to Constantinople.
Since 1304, on Ascension day, the relic of the Holy Blood, is carried around Bruges in the Procession of the Holy Blood. The Procession takes about 90 minutes and has attracted as many as 45,000 visitors. Tickets are required and range from 4.5 to 12.5 euros. The relic can be worshipped every day between 2 and 4 PM and 10:15 to 11 AM on Fridays. Procession of the Holy Blood 30 Best Churches in Bruges
After all that exploring it’s probably time to relax and take in the city’s hidden gardens, arched stone bridges and picturesque buildings by doing a canal cruise. One of the city’s many names is “Venice of the North” because of the many canals that crisscross the city. These canals once carried trade goods from the North Sea to the heart of Europe. Canal cruises usually last 30 minutes with a knowledgeable guide explaining the sites as you cruise. A relaxing way to see the city with great picture opportunities. These canals add to the charm of an already remarkably beautiful and enchanting city.
I imagine by this time you might be pretty hungry. When Maureen and I travel, we don’t look for high end places to dine. We prefer the smaller local cafes and restaurants. We also like to eat outside whenever possible to enjoy the sites and to people watch. The smaller restaurants often have a better selection of local specialties. Near the Markt there are number of good restaurants that feature everything from Flemish stew to oven baked spaghetti to waffles and of course local beers.
Looking for traditional Flemish stew, Brasserie Cambrinus is the place for you. Housed in a building that was built in 1699, the restaurant features a diverse menu along with a tavern that offers over 400 varieties of beer. The name comes from Cambrinus, known as the KIng of Beer in Belgium, the Netherlands, Germany and other European countries.
Looking for waffles, check out House of Waffles Located near the Belfry, the restaurant often has long lines at the take out window and a bit of a wait for inside seating. First thing is to decide if you want a Belgian waffle or Liege waffle. Belgian waffles are made from a batter that includes whipped eggs whites, lending to a lighter and airier texture. Belgian waffles are made for holding syrup, butter and fruit toppings. Liege waffles are made with a yeast based dough that includes butter, eggs and sugar, leading to a brioche like texture. Liege waffles use pearl sugar, which creates a cruncy, sweet exterior when cooked. The waffles here are made fresh and not made before hand and stacked in the window for quick service, which makes a major difference in the taste.
Looking for something unique, head to the brewery De Halve Maan. Leon Maes purchased the brewery in 1856, beginning a long line of family ownership that continues to the present day. In 1945 the brewery also began the distribution of water, lemonade and cola. Beer was still deliver by horse and cart. Later their famous De Halve Maan trucks began delivering throughout the city. Due to increased popularity, the brewery expanded in 2010 and was forced to open a bottling plant outside of the city center of Bruges. The construction of De Halve Maan’s world famous beer pipeline was completed in 2016. The two mile pipeline connects the brewery in the center of Bruges to the bottling plant just outside the city. There has been brewing activity on the site of the current De Halve Maan brewery for over five centuries. Eleven beers are brewed onsite, the most famous being Burgse Zot.
If your in Belgium, you know there will be chocolate and Bruges has its share of artisan chocolatiers. There are more than 70 chocolate shops in Bruges, however not all make their treats locally, some import form outside of the city. One of the most famous is the Chocolate Line , owned by Dominic Personne. He has created and served chocolates to the Belgium and Jordanian Royal families, the Rolling Stones and Landrover. AUthor of several books on chocolate and owns a cocoa plantation in Mexico.
As with all of Belgium, there are number of other outstanding chocolate shops in Bruges, including The Old Chocolate House, Pralinette, Chocolatier Dumon, the Chocolate Brothers and Choco Story – Bruges Chocolate Museum. Good list of Bruges Chocolate shops: Bruges Chocolate Shops
Our trips to Bruges consisted of a day trip plus a second visit that included a one night stay. That one night was spent at the Gheestelic Hof Good central location from which we could easily walk the city. The rooms were more than adequate space wise although the shower was small and a bit of a challenge. The art work in the room was different,. We had a portrait of Michael Jackson above our bed.
With its small size and walkable layout, Brugge makes for an ideal day trip from Brussels (1 hour train ride) or Ghent. If you have the time, a weekend getaway would be perfect. Enough time to explore and see the city at night after all the day trippers have left. The first time we visited Bruges, it was a day trip from Brussels and we went as part of guided tour. We weren’t quite sure what to expect so we booked a tour. During the tour, we hit all the tourist hotspots such as the Markt and Churches.
The second visit with our friends, we spent the night which made a world of difference. During this visit, we had time to explore the city, stopping in shops that looked interesting, buying chocolates, linen and waiting in line for waffles. Bruges does have a nice vibe at night with the way the lights of the city reflect off the ancient architecture and cobblestone streets. Nice to eat in restaurants were the clientele is a mix of locals and overnight tourists. When we go back, I would definitely spend a night or two in the city.
The best time to visit is during late spring through early fall when the weather is mild and the days are long. If you can visit in winter, there are fewer crowds and the Christmas markets add festive charm to this already enchanting city.
What makes Bruges unique is that it is a functioning city and not merely a museum. Residents go about their daily lives in buildings that have housed families and shops for centuries. The city is a Unesco World Heritage Center. Visit Bruges Official Website Visit Bruges
If you like Bruges, Cesky Krumlov in the Czech Republic is another city to explore.
Thanks for the information on Burges. I have been once, but after reading your article I need to go again. There’s several sights I didn’t know about.
Thank-you😊