The Beautiful Hillside Villages of Cinque Terre, Italy

Once you get to Cinque Terre, there is a local train that runs between La Spezia and the five cities.  We bought a week-long pass.  This train can get crowded depending on the time of the year and if cruise ships have excursions to the cities.  At times the trains were full with people standing room only.  It is a short ride between the cities.  If the weather is comfortable and you like to walk, there are hiking paths between the cities and many people choose to hike across the hills between the cities.  The paths are well marked. Be sure to check with the locals to insure they are open and not closed for renovation or because of a natural event.  Detailed Hiking Information

The villages are carved into the side of the mountain so be ready in most cases for hills and steps.  We rented an apartment in Manarola and it was 40 uneven steep steeps down to our apartment and then 40 steps up when we went out every day.  The apartment did have a great patio that looked out over the bay.  I had my coffee there every morning.

There are plenty of little shops and grocery stores that sell food, so you won’t go hungry.  We liked the small local places to stop and eat.  Cinque Terre is famous for seafood so you will see mussels, fish and pasta with squid ink pasta sauce on the menu.  Didn’t try the pasta with squid ink sauce, maybe next time. The area is famous for Fritto Misto di Mare – mixed seafood platter that includes squid, small fish and shrimp. We ate in each city except Corniglia, usually at small local restaurants and take out from local shops.

Let’s talk what makes each city unique and very much worth the visit to Cinque Terre

Monterosso – it is the largest and most laid-back of the five cities, making it perfect for families with children who want easy beach access.  The white sand beaches are outlined with beautiful turquoise water.  Very popular destination for tourists and locals alike.  Get there early as the beach umbrellas and chairs fill up quickly, especially on the weekends.  You’ll see locals on the train with their beach chairs and umbrellas heading to Monterosso.

Monterosso is relatively flat compared to the other four cities.  The main street is parallel to the beach and is lined with hotels and restaurants.  We strolled the main street from one end to the other, enjoying lunch at a restaurant overlooking the beach.  There are also a number of side streets to explore with colorful houses and small shops.  The main street takes you to and from the train station.

Not interested in spending time on the beach, visit Old Town (Monterosso Vecchio) with its cobblestone streets, shops and cafes.  There are two Churches of San Giovanni Battista in Cinque Terre, one in Monterosso and one in Riomaggiore. The Monterosso church is a 14th-century gothic church with a black-and-dark green serpentine facade with a rose window and is one of the must see places in Monterosso.

I thought Monterosso is the most commercial of the five cities.  As with some of the other cities within Cinque Terre you can explore staying in farmhouses close to the city that offer local food, wine tastings, and themed suppers.  Monterosso has it all, shops, restaurants, a number of housing options and the most beautiful beaches in Cinque Terre.  I can understand why it is one of the most popular cities on the Italian Rivera.

Next stop, my favorite city and the one considered the most photogenic of the five cities – Vernazza. 

I love the feel and vibe of Vernazza – walking from the train station along narrow streets lined with colorful houses and shops that end at the harbor and the Piazza Marconi.  We enjoyed walking the city and people watching while sitting on the wall that surrounds the bay.

After sitting for a while, we headed to the Church of Santa Margherita d’ Antiochia.  The church is octagon in shaped and is positioned on a rocky promontory overlooking the bay.

After visiting the church, we headed to the Piazza Marconi for lunch and to enjoy the sea breezes.  There are a number of restaurants within the piazza that offer a relaxing view of the harbor and the sea.

We did all out our souvenir shopping in Vernazza, purchasing a number of spices, small bottles of lemon cello and a few other items. I thought the shops here had the best selection and the prices were reasonable.   If we ever go back to Cinque Terre, I would want to stay in Vernazza.

The train station in Vernazza does have limited space and the line can go down the steps to the street.  It is best to visit early morning or late afternoon to avoid the midday crowds.

 Corniglia –  It is the smallest and least commercial of the five cities and the only city not directly accessible by water. The day we planned on visiting Corniglia it rained, so we stayed in Manarola.

Corniglia appeals to hikers and those who want to escape the tourist crowds. It sits high on a cliff 100 meters above sea level.  The train station is at the bottom of the hill.  To walk to Corniglia, you climb the Lardarina Steps – 382 step staircase with excellent views of the coast or you can take a local shuttle bus.  I think part of the charm of Corniglia is climbing the steps.

What draws people to Corniglia beside climbing the steps?  The Terrazza Infinity Pool is a cliff top terrace offering 180 degree views of the Mediterranean. There are a number of local artisans, small galleries and family run trattorias.  Corniglia is also an excellent base for those who want to hike the paths connecting the villages.

Vernazza maybe the most photogenic village in Cinque Terre, however Manarola is probably the most photographed due to it’s terraced vineyards and mosaic array of houses silhouetted against the sea.

It is the second stop on the train line coming from La Spezia.  We stayed in a rented apartment in Manarola.  The walk from the train station to our apartment was an introduction to the hills and steps of Cinque Terre.  The crest of the second hill provided a beautiful view of the bay and the city.  We then traversed forty uneven steps down to our apartment.

The apartment was spacious with a great patio overlooking the bay and most importantly, air conditioning. We visited Cinque Terre in late June and early July.  It was very humid and hot

Manarola has the feel of a small Italian village – small shops, local restaurants and takeaways shops.  You will see tourists and locals sitting on the rocks around the harbor enjoying the sea breezes and warmth of the sun. We purchased bread, milk and fresh made pastas meals more than once to enjoy in our apartment.

One of the the most popular places in Manrola is Nessun Dorma wine bar.  Nessun Dorma is the highest point in Manarola and is known for its fantastic views of the city.  It is very popular with tourists and locals alike.  Best advice is to download the app and make reservations so you don’t have to wait in line especially on a hot day. Nessun Dorma  

The Church of St. Lawrence is located in Manarola.  It is a 14th century gothic style church known for its artwork.   The hiking trail from Manarola to Corniglia is noted as the location where many of the most famous postcard photos of Manarola and the harbor are taken.

Last but not least of the five cities is Riomaggiore.  Famous for its tower houses stacked next to each other along a steep valley leading to the harbor.   With inclines and steps to traverse as you move around the city, you get to enjoy the true feeling of a hill side village. Make you way up to the Church of San Giovanni Battista to enjoy the view and take some memorable photos.

After getting off the train, we strolled along Via Colombo, the main street through the city, shops and restaurants  line both sides of the street.  The shopping and restaurants are more numerous than Manarola and comparable to Vernazza.

It is worth to walk to visit the Church of San Giovanni Battista.  Founded in the mid-1300’s and rebuilt in the 19th century, the church is famous for it’s beautiful frescos and tranquil courtyard.

Riomaggiore is also known as the romantic village, it is a popular spot for marriage proposals and honeymoons.

Visiting Cinque Terre

The easiest way to visit Cinque Terre is by train. Parking is limited, you may have to change trains, however a lot of cities connect to La Spezia and from there it is a short ride to any of the five villages.

Purchase the Cinque Terre card for unlimited travel between the villages, access to the hiking trails and discounts on buses and boats.

Visit in late spring (May-June) and early fall (September-October) for better weather and fewer crowds.  We were there in early July and it was very hot, humid and crowded.

If you like to hike, the trails between villages  range from easy to moderate difficulty.  Check the trails before hiking for conditions and potential closures.

Think about if you want the convenience of a hotel, an apartment for privacy or a bed-and-breakfast for a local experience.  This could determine which village is a best fit for your stay.

Schedule a boat tour of the cities.   We scheduled a couple of boat tours and each one was canceled due to rough seas.     Cinque Terre Boat Tours

For more information checkout – Complete Guide to Cinque Terre